50 Jordan Challenges: The List

So, taking a leaf from my 2010 52 New Things adventure, I've decided to embark on a new one. This one will attempt to pack 50 challenges (and document them) into my ten month Fulbright experience here in Amman, Jordan. That sounds more ambitious than it actually is: some of the things I'm labelling as challenges are everyday experiences I'm going to have to master whether I call them challenges or not, and others are trips I've been hoping to take for years. But as I learned in 2010, thinking of challenges and actually making a commitment to do them, begets more opportunities, more new ideas, and more new friends (and old) who might just be interested in doing some of them too.


So, here's the list so far. It's obviously still in formation, and, as in 2010, there will be things to be added and things that get knocked off. So feel free to make suggestions, sign up for ones that look of mutual interest, or make your own list for comparison!

Things I Need to Do to Acclimate to Life in Jordan

* Learn to use my washing machine. This was the first thing I thought of with the list, and I'm happy to say I've done it (and did a post to prove it).


* Learn to use my oven. My oven and stove are connected to a propane tank, and both the oven and individual burners need to be lit any time you use it. I can't even figure out where you light the oven or what the mysterious dials mean. But as everyone who knows me knows, I can't go too long without baking something, so this is a must.

*Get to know my neighborhood.  A funny thing about Amman is that here, addresses are meaningless.  Give an address to a cab driver and he'll just stare at you. You have to know a nearby well-known landmark that you can direct him to, then tell him how to get to the place from there.  I am, to put it mildly, directionally challenged. So, the recent assignment given by our Fulbright Commission director Alain, to draw maps for him of our place within our neighborhood (to have in case of emergencies) means that I actually need to get out and get to know my local landmarks.

* Learn some Arabic! Everyone has warned me that Arabic is a very tough language, so I am going to set up some baby-step goals. The first: being able to ask Nasser, the guy I've been buying my fruits and vegetables from, for what I want in Arabic.


* Learn some Arabic, part II. I think my second goal will be to learn to write a full sentence that includes my name.


* Learn Arabic, part III. The third, and this one feels pretty tough right now -- but I do have ten months -- will be to try to read a children's story in Arabic. The idea was suggested, like a bunch of things on this list, by my new friend Christina, who is a font of ideas, wisdom and excellent tidbits about the Arabic language for a total newbie like me.

Uniquely Jordanian Skills and Experiences

* Learn to cook a Jordanian main or side dish. There's tons of things I've eaten that I have no idea how to make. I hope to learn from a pro how to make one or more of them.

* Learn to make a Jordanian dessert. Everyone who knows me knows I'm all about the sweets. I want to make one of the pretty and fancy desserts or pastries that get produced here.

* Ride an Arabian horse. Suggested by my sister Katrinka, and complicated by the fact that I've only ever ridden a horse a few times in my life, period. But maybe that makes it that much more of a challenge

* Do a fun run here in Jordan. One of the toughest things about being here so far is that I can't run outside. I'm a painfully slow runner, and running on a treadmill is not only boring, but a constant reminder of that. So, I think a good way to get motivated will be to sign up for a 5 or 10 K during my time here (and no, I'd rather not try the Dead Sea Marathon unless there's something shorter attached to it.)

* Go on a bike trip with Cycle Jordan. This was suggested by Megan, an outgoing student Fulbrighter. The group takes trips to all kinds of cool spots around the country. I think it would be a great thing to do from a biking and an exploring Jordan standpoint.

* Watch a movie in Arabic. Suggested by my new friend Christina. I think I'll need to try to get some Arabic-speaking friends to go with me so I can find out later if I got the gist of the plot at all.

* Visit Petra Three Ways. When I did my 52 New Things, one of them was to do what is probably Vermont's most famous hike, Camel's Hump, in all four seasons. Similarly, I'd like to go to Petra in three different ways. They are: to see Petra at night (the long Siq is supposedly lit by thousands of candles); to visit Petra in the winter; and to visit Petra with someone really well-versed in its archeology. (I just had to post the picture below because it's from the first time I went to Petra, because it features my close friend Siham, who I hope will be taking part in one of these Petra adventures again, and because it's my favorite picture I've ever taken).

My first trip to Petra with my friends Siham and Connor, was one of the best experiences of my life.  We were befriended by a couple of Bedouins, Khalid and Ibrahim, who took us on a hike out of Petra over the cliffs into the desert and spent the night in one of the caves they took us to.  Here is my friend Siham with Khalid.

* Go on an archaeological dig. My new friend Elizabeth knows lots of people working in the antiquities realm. Here's hoping she can swing a tag-along for a day or two at a site somewhere. How cool would that be?

* Go rock climbing in Wadi Rum.  Wadi Rum is the legendary desert of Lawrence of Arabia.  It's full of cliffs and canyons and is said to have some of the best rock climbing in the world.  I am just a novice at rock climbing, so I won't be able to take advantage of all it has to offer, but I sure would love to see and try it anyway.

* Go snorkeling in Aqaba.  Aqaba sits on the coast of the Red Sea and has spectacular coral reefs, which I definitely want to check out.

* Explore the tiles of Madaba, the City of Mosaics. There is a really famous one in a Greek Orthodox church that is a 6th century Byzantine map of Jerusalem and other holy spots, plus a museum and lots of other smaller mosaics in other churches in Madaba.

*See the ruins of Jerash.  Jerash is considered one of the best preserved Roman provincial towns in the world, and you can still go to the theatre, hippodrome, nymphaeum and other sites.  If I'm lucky, I'll be able to catch one of the re-enactments they do of chariot races and gladiator battles.

*Visit Umm Qays. This is another ancient city full of ruins that overlooks the Jordan Valley and the Sea of Galilee.  It's also the place where Jesus worked the miracle where he cast demons out of a man and into a herd of pigs that then ran into the Sea of Galilee and drowned.

* Visit the Desert Castles.  These include Qasr al-Hallabat, Qasr al-Azraq, and Qusayer Amra in he Eastern Desert and Qasr al-Mushatta to the South of Amman.

* Go hiking in one of Jordan's nature reserves.  Mujib Nature Reserve is in a very low altitude gorge that opens into the Dead Sea it offers both dry trail hikes and river hikes. I might try to do that or try a visit to Dana Biosphere Reserve or Ajlun Nature Reserve, both of which have hikes as well.

* Visit the Dead Sea and cover myself in  mud.  I've been to the Dead Sea once before, but it was a bit of an impromptu visit and Connor, Siham and I managed to make do without swim suits.  This time I'd like to actually plan the trip, and find out if my skin really will be beautifully revived after being slathered in mineral-rich mud.

* Experience a Hamman.  This is a Turkish bath, and I understand that the experience includes a steam bath followed by a very vigorous scrub and massage.  I've heard different (including a bit of a horror story from my new friend, Fulbright student Cooper) about them, but definitely want to try it out for myself.

*Visit a Biblical site. Jordan is loaded with them, from Bethany Beyond the Jordan, where John the Baptist baptized Jesus, to Mount Nebo, the final point of Moses' flight from Egypt to Mukawir where King Herod had John the Baptist beheaded.  This is another one off my sister Katrinka's suggestion list. Not sure which I'll visit yet, but I hope to see at least one of them while I'm here.

Because I'm in the Neighborhood: Beyond the Border

*Go to Beirut.  I've wanted to do this for a long time.  It's supposed to be a great city and I really want to see it.

*Visit the wine caves in Zahle in Lebanon.  This one was recently  suggested by my new friend Catherine and she made it sound so fun that all of us at the table were ready to pack our bags immediately.

*Return to Bethlehem.  Kate, Alexsis and I experienced some of the most amazing hospitality of our lives when we visited in May.  I hope to return and see the wonderful friends that we made.

*Visit Tel Aviv. Kate and Alexsis were able to visit Tel Aviv during our trip, but I had to return to Amman early.  They came back with reports of a beautiful and lively seaside city that I'd like to see.

*Take a ferry to Egypt. This is yet another great idea from Christina.  There's a ferry that runs from Aqaba across the Red Sea to Nuweiba, Egypt.  What a fun way to do the crossing.

*Visit Turkey.  My former student and friend Alexsis studies abroad for a semester in Instanbul and her dispatches back home filled me with the desire to see it myself. I'm determined to do that during or at the end of this Fulbright period.

So, there it is.  Anyone who's been counting will see that there's still a good bit of room for some more challenges to hit 50, and I think that's a good thing, because obviously, I don't know what I don't know yet. But I'm putting it out there in the hopes that it will inspire me, as well as other Fulbrighters who are here and people who are contemplating visiting, to dig in and explore.  If anyone sees anything on the list that they'd like to do together please contact me; and if there are other suggestions I'd love to hear them.  Here's to an amazing experience in Jordan!

The List

52 New Things: The List

I wanted to start off this post with a big thank you to Leah, who was the one that turned the idea of a Year of Travel into a Year of Many New Things. Here she is the night that the idea was born. She and Siham were at my place helping me with my Halloween costume for the following night’s party before we went out for a few drinks. And in case it’s not immediately obvious --though I don’t know why it wouldn’t be—I was dressed as one of my favorite things: Vermont in the fall (lots of autumn leaves and the occasional random snowflake – now does it make sense?).

So what’s on the list? It’s definitely a case of building the boat while I’m sailing it, and I think I won’t know what all the 52 things are for sure until I’ve actually done them. But having said that, the bulk of the list has taken shape and there are a lot of things that are either definitely or tentatively on the agenda.

In an earlier blog post I described the list in terms of four categories: travel (to countries and places I've never been); tackling things I'm terrible at or intimidated by (a long potential list including many things technological, mechanical, sports-related and creative or artistic); specific things I've always wanted to know how to do (everything from knitting mittens to baking croissants); and experiences I thought would be fun or have said for years I'd do (like ice skating at Rockefeller Center in New York City). I’ve now added a fifth category of things that sound really marvelous that I’ll do if I can swing them financially and/or logistically. Here then, is the list (not in chronological order), as it stands right now.

New Places

1. Nepal. Thanks to my gracious friends Cliff and Nicole, I’m headed to Kathmandu for the New Year on December 28.
2. Dominican Republic. I’ll be participating in a school sponsored international service trip with a crew of fabulous Saint Mike’s students and led by our outstanding fearless leader, Erin, from May 18 – 28.
3. Jordan. At least two weeks in June. This trip is part professional development, part personal interest and part opportunism. I’m developing a class on the Millennium Development Goals for Fall 2010 and using Jordan as a case study, and I’m starting to expand my water scarcity research to the Middle East for obvious reasons (that’s the professional part); several friends have told me that Jordan is a totally cool place and especially that everyone must see Petra (that’s the personal interest part); and two of my all-time favorite people (both of whom know Arabic), Siham and Jamila, have agreed to go with me (that’s the total opportunism part).
4. Lebanon. If you’re going to go to Jordan, doesn’t it make sense to see Lebanon on the same trip? What a silly question. The correct answer is obviously yes.
5. Syria. A maybe, but Jamila is advocating for it, and I think it sounds exciting…
6. Spain. A European country I’ve never been to, but could incorporate as a stopover with Siham in Madrid on the way to Jordan.

Tackling the Fear Factor

7. Dance. I’m signed up for beginning ballet at the local performing arts center in January, and have arm-twisted my friend Crystal into doing it with me.
8. Bike maintenance. A bike expert extraordinaire (aka my friend Dan) has agreed to teach me how to fix a flat and general bike maintenance.
9. Ice climbing. Talk about intimidating. But our campus Wilderness Program has highly recommended day-long outings, and I am going to try to be part of one on January 16.
10. Rock climbing. Ditto the above (that is to say, intimidating), but my friends Conor and Leah, both rock climbing instructors, say they’ll teach me if I can’t do it through the Wilderness Program.
11. Snow boarding. Friends and former students Derek and Cailey have offered to give me lessons, and have warned me that it involves falling a lot and winding up with a very sore butt.
12. Car maintenance. There are a couple specific things I really need to know how to do listed in the category below, but I might just go for broke and sign up for a beginner car maintenance class.
13. Learn to use my digital camera. Don’t know why photography intimidates me so much, but it does. My friends John (who has his own awe-inspiring photography blog at http://megapickles.my-expressions.com), Alexander and Cailey have offered to help on this one.
14. Downhill skiing. Technically, this is not a new thing, since I skied a little in high school and college. But it’s been almost 20 years, and I’ve never done it in Vermont, so I’m counting it. Dan, Cailey and Drisk have all offered a refresher lesson, and Siham is game to try it with me.
15. Cross country skiing. Same thing as downhill – did it a little but a long, long time ago, and shamefully, never here in Vermont. David and a number of other friends and colleagues have offered to help remedy that one.
16. Drawing or painting class. A friend suggested this to me last summer and claimed he saw a look of panic on my face. That means this is the year to try it.
17. Penguin plunge. When I told the student group that I’m going to the Dominican Republic with about the 52 New Things, they were all over it with suggestions. One was to participate in the annual jump into Lake Champlain (that is, through the hole that is made in the ICE) in February to benefit Special Olympics. Anyone who has ever rolled their eyes while listening to me whine for the millionth time about being cold knows why this one is quite the challenge, but I’ll be taking the plunge with Erin in early February.
18. Basic stuff with tools. I don’t know anything about home maintenance or repair. Not anything. I’m not sure how I’ll tackle this one – maybe start by volunteering with Habitat for Humanity, but I’m open to other suggestions.
19. Power point. I need to learn a bit beyond the basics that currently allow me to make the world’s most boring presentations. I think I am intimidated by all things design-related, but I definitely want to give it a shot, and my youngest sister Donna has offered to help.
20. Surfing. Leah took a look at an earlier version of the list and said she could provide the location, boards and instructors if we wanted to give it a try, so of course I added it. It can’t be any harder than snowboarding. Right?

Things I Want to Know How to Do or Make

21. Create a blog. This is actually the first thing I’ve done. Funny how easy it turned out to be, once my friend Julia walked me through it.
22. Jump start the car. My sister Donna pointed out that it’s a bit ridiculous that I’ve made it this far in life without this basic skill. Siham offered to show me.
23. Change a flat tire. Like jump starting the car, I’ve somehow managed to skate through life without knowing up to now, but I think it’s time to learn.
24. Knit a pair of mittens. I don’t feel the need to make a sweater or anything that ambitious, but mittens are different. My sister Katrinka, a world-class knitter, is willing to show me how.
25. Cook an Indian meal. Wouldn’t it be neat to be able to make some of the things I love to order at Indian restaurants? My friend Tara offered to give me lessons, and interestingly, this has been the most popular thing that other people have requested to learn with me as well.
26. Make fresh mozzarella cheese. On January 28 my friend Mark is going to show our friend Valerie and me how to turn milk into one of my all-time favorite foods in my very own kitchen.
27. Bake croissants. My friend Dean, a professional baker, is willing to guide me through this one at his home kitchen/bakery.
28. Learn to do a one-footed spin and a single jump on ice skates. I know some fundamentals like backwards and forwards crossovers and 3-turns, but I think it would be fun to be able to do a trick or two. Julia has offered to provide some tutoring.
29. Sea kayaking. I’ve tried kayaking once or twice on Lake Champlain, but want to try it out on the ocean. My friend and former student Kate, who I actually met when she taught me how to fall out of a kayak, says she’ll take me out to try it this summer.
30. A few words (in 52 languages). My friend Matthew had the brilliant idea of learning how to say “May I have two beers, please” and “I love you” in a different language for every week of the year. I’m definitely doing it.
31. Snow shoe hiking. I’ll be going up at least one mountain (at least what we call a mountain on the East Coast) on snow shoes with the Wilderness Program this winter.
32. Brew beer. Dan and Derek were volunteered by another of our friends, Ted, to show me how it’s done.


Never Put Off Till Tomorrow…

33. Ice skating at Rockefeller Center in New York City. I’ve always wanted to do this, and I’m going to before the rink closes for the year in March. I’ll announce it in advance to see if anyone wants to join me.
34. Contra dancing. A bunch of friends have been suggesting it for forever. I’m going to take my friends David and Kristin up on their offers to go with me.
35. Bird watching. I’ve always been curious about this, and my friend Kimberly is willing to let me tag along with her.
36. Go to a college hockey game. For years my Siham and I said we’d go together and never did. But this year we will. And my friend Paul is willing to go to some other college sporting events that I’ve similarly never attended as well.
37. Do a hike in New Hampshire. As a Vermonter, it’s not exactly an insurmountable distance to travel, but I’ve never done it. My friends Leah and Kate B. have offered to do the hike with me.
38. A moonlight snowshoe or excursion on cross country skis. I think this sounds so cool, and the Wilderness Program does them every year, so I’m signing up.
39. Go camping in Vermont. In all the years I’ve lived here, I’ve never gone camping in this state. My friend Melissa organized a highly-acclaimed group camping trip last year, and suggested I could join it this summer.
40. Visit the Rokeby Museum. For years I’ve driven by it on Route 7. My friend Valerie recently mentioned that I could put it on the list.
41. Do nothing. I thought this was an inspired idea from my student and fellow AIDS activist Madison. She suggested having a day of doing nothing but sitting, reflecting and listening. I want to try it.
42. Eat a Vermontster. Probably the most famous Vermont pig-out opportunity is the Vermonster, a ginormous 20 scoop ice cream sundae at Ben and Jerry’s. My Dominican Republic group suggested this one, but very kindly also offered to help me eat it, so we will have a gluttonous festival of dairy consumption together before embarking on our trip.

Assuming I Can Swing It

43. Visit Alaska. It’s the only state I haven’t been to.
44. Do a meet-up in Latin America. Five of the coolest of my college’s recent alums – Derek, Dan, Drisk, Ted and Zack – are planning a Motorcycle Diaries – style trip from the bottom to the top of Latin America. Only they’re doing it the hard way, with bicycles instead of motorcycles. Assuming they can pull it off, I’m going to fly down in the fall and meet up with them for a visit to either Argentina or Chile.
45. Try falconry. This was my friend Kimberly’s suggestion, and we’ll do it together if we can find a place not too far away.
46. Fencing. Ditto on the fencing possibility, which I think will be a lot easier to locate.
47. Visit Russia, Denmark, the Netherlands, Sweden, Finland and/or Norway. All of these countries are on my Really Want to See list, and which I pick will depend on money, time and who else wants to go. (Disclaimer: Almost every country that I haven’t been to could be justified as going on my Really Want to See list, so if people have other ideas, I’m all ears.)
48. Take a flying lesson. This was a brilliant suggestion from my friend Henry. I love flying, especially in small planes. I know it’s bad for the planet (and also expensive), but if I can manage a lesson just once, I think this would be so very worth doing.
49. Watch a sun rise in Bar Harbor, Maine. This is actually stolen from Siham’s list. She pointed out that, from October to March, this is the earliest place to see the sun rise on the East Coast. So if she goes before March, I’m going with her.

So obviously, the list is a wee bit shy of 52 items, and almost certainly there will be a snafu or two (and/or a nasty financial reality – maybe I should look for a sponsor like the kid on YouTube who got the gum company to pay for him to do jigs around the world) to prevent a few of them from happening. But I think most of them will be keepers, and I’m open to suggestions for substitutions and topping up the list. Thanks to everyone who has already suggested ideas, or volunteered to teach me something or join in doing it, and I hope the offers and ideas will continue. Here’s to a year filled with many, many New Things.